Benefits of Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
AHAs are water-soluble and have the smallest molecular size allowing them to penetrate deepest into our skin. They not only exfoliate the dead skin on the surface of our skin; the epidermis, but they have the ability to penetrate through the epidermis and can treat underlying skin conditions within the dermis as well. AHAs can do wonders for your skin whether your concerns are hyperpigmentation caused by acne scars or sun spots, acne or texture, fine lines or wrinkles, and more! Although all AHAs have similar chemical structures they do behave very differently from one another. The right AHA for you truly depends on your skin type and your skin concerns, one AHA could be too harsh and irritate your skin, and another could be perfectly gentle yet still effective for your skin.
To help you discover which AHA would work best for you, observe the table below.
| Alpha Hydroxy Acids | Derived From | Best For | Be Extra Cautious |
| Lactic Acid | Milk | Hyperpigmentation, slightly sensitive, dry or mature skin | |
| Glycolic Acid | Sugar Cane | Congested, clogged pores, dull skin, texture, hyperpigmentation | Dark skin tones and sensitive skin |
| Mandelic Acid | Bitter Almonds | Sensitive/Inflamed skin, acne | |
| Malic Acid | Apples & Pears | Hyperpigmentation, dry or mature skin | |
| Citric Acid | Citrus Fruits | Stabilizing other acids and pH, preservative | |
| Tartaric Acid | Grapes | Stabilizing and enhancing other acids and pH | |
| Kojic | Fermented Foods | Hyperpigmentation, brightening | Dark skin tones |
AHA Products: When to Use & How?
AHAs can be formulated in a variety of products ranging from cleansers, toners, masks, serums, and moisturizers. If you have never used an AHA and want to dip your toe in the water, a cleanser can be a great baby step to test out an AHA and see if your skin does well, since cleansers are a lower percentage and are washed off.
I also love toners with AHAs as a starter product. Start with a low concentration; the ideal concentration percentage will depend on the acid, but 5%- 10% is a good general rule, taking your skin type into consideration as well. If you introduce an AHA serum into your routine for the first time and want to be cautious, you can start by incorporating it every other night for the first couple of weeks and if your skin does well you can try every night.
Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular structure and therefore has the strongest penetrating capability, because of this you will feel more of a tingle after application which is normal. Lactic acid has similar benefits as glycolic acid but is actually hydrating as it can act as a humectant in low concentrations, if you have more sensitive or dry skin you should choose lactic over glycolic acid. This gives you an idea of the similarities yet telling differences between AHAs.
If you apply an AHA and have persistent stinging or burning this is a sign you have entered the territory of over-exfoliation, and it is time to give your skin a break. Be aware of all ingredients in your routine and how they may interact with one another (aka you don’t want to be using too many exfoliating products at once).
If, after reading the information and tips presented in this blog you still aren’t quite sure if AHAs are right for you, consult a Pomp Esthetician or read our blogs regarding hydroxy acids including BHAs and PHAs!
