A Complete Guide to Hydroxy Acids
You may have been told that incorporating AHAs and BHAs in your skincare routine is the best way to achieve chemical exfoliation, and this is true. However, do you truly know the differences between AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs?
What are Chemical Acids?
We have talked about how fantastic chemical exfoliation can be. It not only helps you achieve that dewy glow we all long for but also improves varying skin conditions and concerns. As a licensed esthetician, I would love to provide you with all the information you need about the varying types of hydroxy acids and help you in determining which if not all would be best for you.
Although chemical acids may sound intimidating to put on your skin, they are actually naturally derived compounds found in nature. Yes, they are acids, and therefore have the potential to cause irritation and even chemical burns. But when formulated into skincare, a very low concentration is used to ensure safety. There are also formulations with higher concentrations for professional use, such as those used for chemical peels.
Hydroxy acids are intended to help rid the skin’s surface of dead skin, revealing new skin with an improved look and feel.
On top of this basic desquamation or exfoliation, each category of acids possesses its own characteristics, and each acid within each category is better suited for specific skin types and conditions, which is why it is important to learn and understand the differences.
What makes AHA’s, BHA’s, and PHA’s Different?
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are characterized as water-soluble acids. They have a small molecular size which allows them to penetrate through the epidermal layers into the dermis. AHAs are wonderful for improving fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and the overall texture of the skin. The most common types of AHA’s include Lactic and Glycolic acids. Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble and therefore are great for oily and acne-prone skin types, but improve signs of aging as well.
BHAs do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and therefore have a lower chance of causing irritation. Salicylic acid is the most widely used BHA, but there are others that are less known. Poly-hydroxy acids (PHA’) are the least known category of hydroxy acids but are gaining popularity as of recent. PHAs are also water-soluble like AHAs, but do not penetrate past the epidermis. This makes PHAs a great choice for sensitive skin that needs barrier repair, such as rosacea. Gluconolactone and Lactobionic acid are popular PHAs on the rise.
Hydroxy acids have so much to offer, but you will want to choose hydroxy acids that support your skin type and concerns, to achieve results and avoid irritation.
