What Is Azelaic Acid & What Are the Benefits?
There are so many options for hydroxy acids on the skincare market - AHAs, BHAs, and now even PHAs on the rise. One acid that does not fall under any of these categories is azelaic acid.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid (AzA) is a dicarboxylic acid produced by a form of yeast found on human skin. It can also be found in grains like wheat, barley, or rye, but the most stable form used in skincare formulations is created in a lab. Azelaic can be tricky to formulate with, hence why there aren’t many AzA skincare products to choose from. The ingredient has predominantly been utilized in prescription products at 15-20% concentrations, most often used to treat acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. Lower concentrations have also shown to be beneficial in treating these skin conditions as well.
For an over the counter product to be effective a 10% concentration is ideal.
Azelaic Acid Can Help Reduce Hyperpigmentation/ Melasma
AzA is a tyrosinase inhibitor, this means it interferes with melanogenesis or the production of pigment within the skin. Hyperpigmentation can consist of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) from acne, brown spots from the sun, or melasma; a patterned hyperpigmentation disorder usually brought on by hormone fluctuation.
AzA can help treat all of the above, even melasma which is known to be one of the most stubborn skin conditions. A prescription-strength azelaic acid of 20% is equivalent to 4% hydroquinone, which is great news because hydroquinone is not an ideal long term solution for hyperpigmentation.
How Azelaic Acid Can Help Calm Rosacea
Rosacea is an inflammatory skin condition that causes redness and visible or dilated blood vessels. AzA is anti-inflammatory so it helps to calm rosacea, it also inhibits reactive oxygen species within the skin from causing further damage to rosacea-prone skin. If you have sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, azelaic acid is showing promising results for reducing inflammation in the skin, if you have severe rosacea ask your dermatologist about incorporating azelaic acid into your treatment plan.
Can Azelaic Acid Treat Acne?
Azelaic acid is antibacterial, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory which makes it a wonderful ingredient for treating acne. Not only will it help kill bacteria within the skin but will reduce inflammation allowing inflamed acne to heal quicker. Although it is not as exfoliating as other AHA and BHA acids, it does act as an effective leave-on exfoliant and regulates epidermal keratinization on the surface of the skin, meaning it helps to prevent excess keratin from building up within the pores and worsening acne.
If you are struggling with any of these skin conditions azelaic acid may be a great addition to your skincare regimen. Consult with a dermatologist for a prescription-strength product or with a Pomp esthetician for a regimen boost from azelaic acid.
