Understanding Different Types of Acne
What is acne? Why does it happen to adults? Are there myths about acne online?
Sensitive, acnaic skin can happen at any stage of life. According to the American Academy of Dermatology Association (AAD), acne is the most common skin condition in the United States. Affecting up to 50 million Americans per year, acne affects up to 15% of women in their 30s-40s. To kick off Acne Awareness Month, we consulted Nicole Gauci, a licensed esthetician, acne specialist, and Pomp Esthetician, to help us understand the different types of acne. Why it happens to adults, and how to treat it with the help of a licensed esthetician.
What is acne?
According to Nicole, acne is an inherited disorder of the pore. Acne-prone skin types tend to shed dead skin cells 5x faster than non-acne-prone individuals. This rapid shedding of dead skin cells creates buildup within the skin barrier. “In addition to the buildup,” Nicole says, “you also have thicker, stickier sebum that clogs the pores easily.” Combining the buildup of cells and clogging of the pores creates a microcomedone deep in the skin. Translated, this process is the beginning of what we know as pimples.
Getting to know your pimples
What we refer to as acne can be broken down into varying types of pimples on our skin. Estheticians try to understand what type of acne a client is facing before recommending products, because even acne-prone skin is different depending on the person. The main two pimple categories typically fall into inflamed vs. non-inflamed acne.
Non-inflamed acne
“Whiteheads and blackheads fall into the non-inflamed acne category,” Nicole tells us. Whiteheads can be identified as a closed comedone with a you-guessed-it, whitehead on top. There is no inflammation (redness, warmth, pain) involved in whiteheads. Where whiteheads are closed comedones, blackheads are open comedones. Because the pore opening is not closed and exposed to the air, the top of the comedome is dark or black in appearance. “Overall with non-inflamed acne,” Nicole explains, “there is little to zero acne bacteria present.”
Inflamed acne
Nicole continues to explain that inflamed acne consists of pustules, papules, cysts, and nodules. These acne lesions are typically swollen and painful. They can appear red due to the presence of acne bacteria in the skin. Pustules form a yellow pus beneath the skin that can be oh so tempting to squeeze! Papules, cysts and nodules are felt deeper in the skin. Since inflamed acne consists of high levels of bacteria, picking and squeezing will only spread this bacteria beneath the skin. “Picking and squeezing inflamed acne is what typically causes acne scarring among clients,” Nicole informs.
Location, location, location
Pimples can form for a number of reasons. The simplest being diet, stress levels, hormonal imbalances, lifestyle changes, environmental factors, and your current skincare routine (or lack thereof) all play a role. “Acne can also show up anywhere on the skin,” Nicole shares. “The location of your acne can actually help you understand what may be triggering some of your breakouts…”
Forehead/temples: Shampoo, conditioner, hats, or helmets
Note: Teens experience acne on their forehead due to hormonal changes.
Cheeks: Dirty pillowcase, cell phone, or pore-clogging ingredients in hair products
Jawline: Hormonal imbalances in adults
Chin: Hormonal or bacteria from the hands
Around the mouth: Pore-cloggers in lip products, toothpaste, or dietary sensitivities
Acne Myth
“Acne can be cured.”
False
〰️
False 〰️
Esthetician Insight
“Unfortunately acne is a skin condition that can only be managed but clear skin is maintained by an appropriate skincare routine and lifestyle changes. Statements claiming that one specific factor is causing your acne is a red flag as well. It’s never just one thing and that’s why a multi-factor approach is the fastest way to clear skin.”
Treating Acne with an Esthetician
Understanding acne is layered and complex. Which is why trying to tackle it on your own by following skintok product recommendations can be discouraging and overwhelming. Working with an esthetician can help take the frustration out of the clearing process.
“My clients not only receive a customized skincare routine that is appropriate for their skin type,” Nicole explains, “They are educated on dietary and lifestyle factors that contribute to their acne.”
Take control of your acne and start working with a licensed professional. We promise it’s worth it.