How to Know Which Exfoliation Method is Best For Your Skin Type

There are two main types of exfoliation: chemical and physical. Both methods of exfoliation have the same goal in mind – increase cell turnover in the skin in order to reveal new, healthy skin.

We’re all in pursuit of beautiful, healthy skin. Picture it - an even tone of supple, dewy skin glistening in the sun (we’ve got our SPF on, of course). Although there is no argument on what a healthy glow looks like, our roadmap to getting there varies depending on our individual skin type and predisposed skin conditions. However, there is something that every skin type out there can benefit from no matter your skin struggles. Yes, you read that right – one step closer to that Twilight movie radiance. When done correctly this is, in my opinion, the most important step in your skincare regimen - Exfoliation.  

Why Exfoliation is Needed

Desquamation, more commonly known as exfoliation, is the process where Corneocytes (dead skin cells) shed from the outermost layer of the Epidermis – the Stratum Corneum. This shedding cycle happens naturally every 28 days or so, but this process is slowed down tremendously by environmental factors, hormones, aging, etc. which leaves you with dull, uneven, and problematic skin. The solution? Increase the rate at which this shedding process happens with responsible home exfoliation. 

Exfoliation encourages cell turnover at a faster rate than the naturally occurring 28-day cycle which helps unclog pores, enhance product absorption, increase collagen and elastin production and overall brighten and even skin complexion. The benefits are endless! No matter your skin type (normal, dry, oily, combination, or sensitive) or your skin concerns (acne, aging, hyperpigmentation, etc.) exfoliation is extremely beneficial to your skincare regimen! So, before you run into your bathroom to start exfoliating, let’s talk about which type of exfoliation is best for YOU and your skin goals. 

Types of Exfoliation

There are two main types of exfoliation: chemical and physical. Both methods of exfoliation have the same goal in mind – increase cell turnover in the skin in order to reveal new, healthy skin. The difference between these two methods and determining which is best for you is how they go about accomplishing this goal. 

PHYSICAL EXFOLIATION: Scrubs and Tools

Physical exfoliants work by using the power of friction to manually buff away dead cells on the surface. These are the most common forms of exfoliation simply because they’re easily accessible. This is your facial scrubs, cleansing brushes, and even a basic washcloth. It’s very important when searching for a facial scrub to be sure that the particles are finely ground and will not cause any abrasions or micro-tears to the skin. Gentle scrubs that use ingredients such as plant-based granules, micro-crystals, and finely ground nut powders (not shells) are ideal. Depending on the product, purely physical exfoliants are generally safe for most skin types (again, fine particles are key), but I would avoid them if you have very delicate, sensitive skin or severe, pustule acne.

CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION: Acids and Enzymes

Chemical exfoliants are the powerhouse exfoliants. They work to exfoliate the top layer of the skin, just as physical exfoliants do, but they often work a little deeper within the skin to break apart and dissolve bonds holding the dead skin cells in place. These include Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHA) such as glycolic and lactic; Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHA) like salicylic; Vitamin A or Retinoids; and enzymatic exfoliants derived primarily from fruits.

AHAs (glycolic & lactic) are our water-loving acids. These are great for people with dry or mature skin as these acids work to break apart the ‘glue’ that holds our dead skin cells together, while still helping to improve the skin’s hydration level. They are also great for reducing signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles and helping with hyperpigmentation from aging or scarring. Glycolic has antimicrobial properties, making it a good choice for acne-prone skin as well. 

Our oil-loving acid is our BHA (salicylic). This is best for combination to oily skin types and acne-prone skin as it penetrates deeper into the pores and draws out excess oil. Lower concentrations can also be beneficial for reducing redness and inflammation even in those with sensitive skin or rosacea. 

The power of fruits makes up Enzymatic exfoliants with ingredients like pineapple, papaya, and pumpkin working to break down the proteins in your skin (keratin/ keratinocytes) and allowing those dull, rough outer layers to be set free. Since enzymes vary in strength and activity level, there are enzyme exfoliants out there suitable for every skin type, but I especially love them for people with thin, sensitive skin or those lacking overall brightness and vitality. 

Vitamin A derivatives, such as Retinoids, are most powerful for reducing fine lines and wrinkles, but also improve age spots and overall skin tone and texture, so they can also be beneficial for acne-prone skin. Although Retinoids are highly effective, they commonly cause side effects such as irritation, dryness, and sun sensitivity. For this reason, I recommend discussing this with your Esthetician or Dermatologist before use to find the most beneficial form of vitamin A for you. 

HYBRID EXFOLIANTS: The best of both worlds

Last, but certainly not least, are the exfoliation hybrids. This is the best of both worlds – a combination of chemical and physical exfoliants. For example: a gentle, physical exfoliant that also has multiple chemical properties such as glycolic (AHA) and salicylic (BHA) acids. These provide the instant gratification that a physical exfoliant brings (hello baby soft skin) while targeting multiple skin concerns at once. Most skin types and skin conditions can benefit from this customizable, dual-action form of exfoliation, but I would avoid it if you have very thin, delicate skin or if you are very sensitive.

Do’s and Don’ts of Exfoliation

It’s very important to mention that neither chemical nor physical exfoliants should be a part of your daily skincare routine. In most cases, exfoliating 2-3 times per week is the perfect amount. I recommend starting slowly if you are just getting into exfoliation and then working up to 3 times a week; twice a week for more sensitive skin. Over-exfoliating is possible and if you notice signs of this (excessive dryness, redness, peeling/ flaking, soreness, or inflammation) stop exfoliating and discuss the products you’re using with your Esthetician or Dermatologist before easing back in. 

There is no definite answer on whether it’s better to exfoliate at night or in the morning. There are pros and cons to both, so base this decision on your existing skincare routine. Again, easing into it is always the best way to go. As always, SPF is important for daily use, but when you add exfoliation into your routine it’s imperative. We have to protect that fresh, baby skin at all costs! 

We now know that exfoliation offers benefits that every skin type, regardless of existing skin conditions, can and should benefit from - unclogging pores, enhancing product absorption, increasing collagen and elastin production, and overall brightening and evening out skin tone. Choosing the right exfoliant for you depends on personal preference as well as your skin type and skin goals. Whichever method you choose, be diligent in adding this into your skincare routine 2-3 times per week and you will achieve that sought-after glow sooner than you think.

Whitney Yehling

Licensed Esthetician