BHAs have different benefits than other chemical exfoliants out there. I'm here to break down each acid and help you identify which product is best for your skin type and concerns.

It is now time to dive into beta hydroxyl acids or BHAs. If you haven’t already you can check out the preceding blogs hydroxy acids and alpha hydroxy acids on the Pomp blog. Just like all hydroxy acids, BHAs have their own set of unique capabilities.

BHAs and Acne

Beta hydroxy acids have a unique chemical structure that makes them oil soluble. This allows BHAs to cut through oil or sebum in the skin and penetrate into the pores. Since BHAs are exfoliating just like any other hydroxy acid, they exfoliate the inside of the pore and force oil up and out. This is why BHAs are so incredible for oily and acne-prone skin.

Salicylic acid (SA) is derived from the bark of willow trees and is a salicylate similar to aspirin. If you have an aspirin allergy you should avoid using Salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is widely used in skincare to address skin issues such as acne, psoriasis, and dandruff. It balances oil production and helps to clear and prevent clogged pores, especially blackheads. It has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties which is another way it can help treat inflamed or nodular breakouts.

Salicylic acid can also help reduce fine lines and hyperpigmentation in the skin, as it sheds the dead skin and reveals new and healthy skin which regular use. AHAs are a better choice for anti-aging benefits if acne or oiliness is not the main concern for you. 

Salicylic acid is the most well-known BHA, and some might even think the only BHA. The funny thing is Salicylic acid is not the only BHA and it actually has a slightly different structure than the others, meaning technically it isn’t a true BHA. Despite this, the FDA identifies salicylic acid as a BHA and we follow suit since it does perform like a BHA. Salicylic acid can come in several different forms within skincare products including, willow bark extract, salicylate, and sodium salicylate. 

The other BHAs that are less utilized and definitely less known than salicylic acid, include; beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, and trethocanic acid. It is unclear as to why these other BHAs are not widely known or used in skincare. The simple assumption is they have not had the research and safety testing that salicylic acid has had. No need to worry though, salicylic acid is more than capable of addressing your skin concerns of acne and oily skin with added anti-aging benefits. 

How to Use Salicylic Acid

Your options of products that contain salicylic acid are endless. Cleansers, toners, masks, spot treatments, serums, creams, and even other cosmetic products like shampoos and concealers can all be formulated with salicylic acid. Salicylic acid can be irritating and drying if overused. Just like with any active ingredient it is best to start low and slow.

A concentration of 1-2% is best to start using once every other day, to avoid irritation or excessive dryness. 2-4% is a great concentration level to stick to once your skin has become acclimated. If you have dry or sensitive skin there are other hydroxy acids that will suit your skin types better.

If you are pregnant or nursing you should avoid salicylic acid.

If you are interested in incorporating salicylic acid into your skincare regimen, a Pomp Esthetician can recommend effective products for your skin type and concerns.