Almost everyone has heard of AHAs and BHAs. Hydroxy acids are widely used for chemical exfoliation and addressing a variety of skin concerns. There is a third category that is less known and maybe the best option for those with sensitive skin and inflammatory skin conditions.

What are PHAs?

PHA stands for Polyhydroxy acid, these hydroxy acids are similar to AHAs in the way that they are water-soluble and have humectant or water-binding properties, but they are much different. Unlike AHAs or BHAs, they do not penetrate deep into the skin, this is because PHAs have the largest molecular size of any hydroxy acids. This inhibits them from penetrating deep into the skin’s layers but still exfoliates the top layers of the skin, shedding the dead skin cells and improving texture and tone, without causing any irritation. Common PHAs include lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, and galactose.

Who Can Benefit Most from Using PHA’s?

As previously discussed on the Pomp Skin 101 Blog, AHAs tend to work best for normal to dry skin types and BHAs for oily and acne-prone skin types. Both AHAs and BHAs can be a bit aggressive or irritating for sensitive or excessively dry skin types. This is where PHAs can be a game-changer. For those who have tried implementing AHAs or BHAs and experienced sensitivity, PHAs can offer a much gentler experience.

Even sensitive skin individuals with eczema or atopic rosacea have found the slower penetration of PHAs to be gentle enough, yet can still benefit from the resurfacing property of hydroxy acids. PHAs also have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits, which further suits them for sensitive skin. The best part is certain PHAs like gluconolactone; a natural sugar found in the body can improve hyperpigmentation issues within the skin as well.

Incorporating PHA’s into Your Regimen

Just like any hydroxy acid, PHAs can be formulated in any skincare formulation type. Products for everyday use, like a serum will contain a lower concentration, and products that you use less frequently, like a mask or treatment will be formulated at a higher concentration. If you do not have sensitive skin and want to reap the benefits of PHAs you can find formulations with both AHAs and PHAs within them. PHAs are known to work synergistically with vitamin A products as well if your skin can tolerate it.

PHAs are not well known because since their discovery in the 1970’s they have been patented. Now that the patent is up, the word is out. PHAs are a wonderful choice for those who have not been able to utilize hydroxy acids in the past. Products formulated with PHAs are on the rise, here at Pomp we can’t wait to get our hands on some of these products for your enjoyment!